Krystyna Spark

Click here to view the final results of the 10th December 2018 auction I attended.

A group of fashionable jet setters pose elegantly at the French Casino Le Touquet as they contemplate their next move in a serious game of what looks like blackjack. The moment is captured for eternity by famed photographer Richard Avedon in August 1954. It was taken around the same time as his now iconic shot of Sunny Harnett at the same location wearing an evening dress by Madame Grès. The group photograph, however, is less dreamy and hazy. Both images feature model Sunny Harnett, yet here she is focused on the game. As she stands behind fellow fashion model Renee Breton the two form an intriguing team. Both otherworldly and aloof the slinky women are grounded through their undeniable involvement in this popular game. Talk about girl power!

Although high street fashion retailers try to create unique designs each season, it is undeniable that trends are a recirculation of the past. Who can see this better than those who know a little about the history of dress? However, because of these modern twists and "updated" silhouettes, it can be difficult to find clothing in stores like Zara or H&M that truly have that vintage feel. Searching overflowing clothes rails in dark shopping malls for simple shirts that would not look out of place as part of an authentic 1950s outfit or bags that echo beach fashions of the previous century can be an arduous task.

A seemingly simple hairstyle, the high ponytail, combed tightly towards the back of the head was all the rage among teenagers during the late 1950s. Setting new trends in order to break away from uncomfortable starched petticoats and arduous time-consuming hairdos, contemporary youth used their new fashions to turn their backs on conservative ideals and set themselves apart from the pre-war-born generation of their parents. The high ponytail is arguably the most "modern" of vintage hairstyles and one that has to this day retained its cool-factor and universal appeal.

If you read this blog you will know that I am always on the hunt for pieces that resemble vintage products sold in the past. From time to time I come across a rare gem that has remained unchanged throughout many decades. Such was the case with this bottle of perfume. I wrote an earlier blog post about Coty's L'Aimant scent, where I stated that I am not yet converted to the often strong odour of vintage perfumes... except for one. The time has come to reveal the secret scent!

The smell in question is that of No. 4711's eau de cologne -- the toilet water hailing from the city of Cologne in Germany which quite naturally lends it its name. It can therefore be called the original eau de cologne, the one that led the way for future competitors, and became an icon in it's own right. Created by Italian perfumier Johann Maria Farina who opened business in 1709 in Cologne, Germany - the perfumed water was the first of its kind. The success of the innovative concoction was so great that it became a regularly ordered cosmetic, forming the toilette of many a king, nobleman or fashionable lady. Although today No. 4711 is seen as a fragrance directed at women, this was not always the case and for a long time it was used by both ladies and gentlemen.

Above I have included two advertisements from my personal collection of historical magazines. Both were featured in the Polish magazine "Światowid" (13 June 1931). Published in Kraków, the magazine ran from 1924 to 1939 and took on the form of a weekly chronicle which covered both domestic and international affairs. The first advert is actually for hair dye and states that the dye is made from nut extract and is able to dye hair from the lightest of blond to the blackest of black. The second advertisement is for the typical eau de cologne and it recommends to use the product in your morning bath or to rub your body with it in order to wake up the senses and feel energised. At the bottom of the advert it reminds buyers to check the patented blue-gold label and notes that the cologne is made entirely in the village of Dziedzice (located in the Silesian region of Poland) whose history extends as far back as the Middle Ages!

From the various publications one can see that No. 4711 was available all across Europe. Not only that, it was also able to retain it's status as a luxurious and one-of-a-kind perfume throughout the years. Although tastes have changed and it's name does not elicit the same joyous reaction it did a while ago, the company's headquarters, located in a six-floor building in Cologne, are regular visited by eager tourists and perfume aficionados. It's iconic bottle carries such an aura of glamour and modernity that it is no surprise that it is frequently used by set designers in film and theater. Most recently I saw it in the series Mr. Selfridge, where it occupied the majority of the famous department store's cosmetics counter. 

It's a known fact that trends in fashion repeat themselves, but I have never noticed it more than during recent scrolls down clothing store websites. Perhaps I am simply more atune to the fashion fads of the past, whatever the reason, I am beginning to come to the conclusion that being fashionable is a temporary, exhausting and boring thing. What truly counts is having an original sense of style, being able to combine pieces that appeal to you and in turn creating a look that best expresses your aesthetic, your personality and your interests. So if you love berets then just wear them, you might be surprised to find out that in a few years time they will make a comeback (as they have now) and lo and behold you will be at the forefront of fashion... until something else takes over of course.

Below is a round up of a couple of items which reminded me of historical fashions. Direct links to the items are featured below each photo. What else would you add to this list?

The largest shopping mall near my home is called Galeria Mokotów. Not only is it relatively easy for me to reach but it also happens to have a rather good selection of stores and clothing brands. Unsurprisingly, last week, when my best friend was in town, we decided to stop by and pick up a few last minute Christmas presents. We were walking from one shop to the next when a small photograph depicting a 1950s fashion show, carefully displayed on a little podium, caught my eye. I looked up and saw three enormous black and white posters hanging from the ceiling -- they portrayed fashion photography from the 1960s. I was much perplexed. Only a minute later did it sink in -- I was standing in the middle of a fashion photography exhibition, right in the centre of a shopping mall! The exhibition was designed around a circular rotunda which accommodated one of the many escalators. Along the balustrade small podiums were arranged showcasing Polish fashion photographs from the mid-1950s to 1988.  It was, however, primarily the aforementioned, ceiling-hung blown-up images that caught the curious eyes of passersby. I noticed leaflets strewn around the floor describing the exhibition and its title. (Pictures of the leaflets and the design of the installations are at the end of this post.) From there I learned that the project was part of a newly founded initiative called The Designer Gallery, which is headed by fashion show choreographer Katarzyna Sokołowska. The exhibition itself, however, was curated by Agnieszka Ścibior, leading stylist and creative director at Viva! Moda magazine. After my friend left to catch her bus, I ran back and photographed the entire installation in order to write this blog post, so here we go!

Above: Photograph by Władysław Sławny, Presentation of Polish clothing companies at the Parisian Fairs, Paris, France, May 1973. Forum Archives.