Blow-Up: Fashion Photography in Poland, 1955 - 1989

The largest shopping mall near my home is called Galeria Mokotów. Not only is it relatively easy for me to reach but it also happens to have a rather good selection of stores and clothing brands. Unsurprisingly, last week, when my best friend was in town, we decided to stop by and pick up a few last minute Christmas presents. We were walking from one shop to the next when a small photograph depicting a 1950s fashion show, carefully displayed on a little podium, caught my eye. I looked up and saw three enormous black and white posters hanging from the ceiling -- they portrayed fashion photography from the 1960s. I was much perplexed. Only a minute later did it sink in -- I was standing in the middle of a fashion photography exhibition, right in the centre of a shopping mall! The exhibition was designed around a circular rotunda which accommodated one of the many escalators. Along the balustrade small podiums were arranged showcasing Polish fashion photographs from the mid-1950s to 1988. It was, however, primarily the aforementioned, ceiling-hung blown-up images that caught the curious eyes of passersby. I noticed leaflets strewn around the floor describing the exhibition and its title. (Pictures of the leaflets and the design of the installations are at the end of this post.) From there I learned that the project was part of a newly founded initiative called The Designer Gallery, which is headed by fashion show choreographer Katarzyna Sokołowska. The exhibition itself, however, was curated by Agnieszka Ścibior, leading stylist and creative director at Viva! Moda magazine. After my friend left to catch her bus, I ran back and photographed the entire installation in order to write this blog post, so here we go!

Above: Photograph by Władysław Sławny, Presentation of Polish clothing companies at the Parisian Fairs, Paris, France, May 1973. Forum Archives.

I was most drawn to the fact that many of these photographs I had not seen before. Being just a small window into the world of fashion in Poland, before it regained its independence in 1989, they prove that despite the commonly held belief that the heart of fashion lies in Paris, there was in fact much more going on within this field in other countries. In Poland one of the most recognised and well-established designers was Jadwiga Grabowska, who led the brand Moda Polska. Moda Polska, literally translated Polish Fashion, was a state-owned company set up to aid the creation and promotion of the latest trends in fashion. Although the possibility of foreign travel was limited in Communitst-ruled Poland, Grabowska was allowed frequent visits abroad to observe the most recent advances in textile production and see the latest couture collections from Paris. Therefore, as can be seen from the photographs, many of the designs created in Poland rivalled in their novelty those of even the most talented Parisian couturiers.

Interesting to note are the spaces within which the many fashion shows took place. Usually, but not exclusively, held in Warsaw, these shows were frequently presented in the Primate's Palace, the Palace of Culture and Sciences, the Forum Hotel or atop the rooftops of large department stores. These shows were not perfectly lit, filmed from every angle or rehearsed a hundred times. They were created on limited budgets, often spontaneously planned and open to all. Nonetheless the events themselves were an honour to attend and would frequently be put on for the wives of visiting heads of state. They were a unique spectacle in the midst of a homogeneous society, where standing out from the crowd could be risky and wearing a dress from the United States was a luxury many could not afford. They featured some of the most recognised models of the time, many of whom were winners of the Miss Polonia (Miss Poland) title and future actresses. One such example is Teresa Tuszyńska, who was the subject of my previous blog post and a photo of whom was also featured in the exhibition.

Apart from fashion shows held within the confines of statuesque buildings, clothing was increasingly portrayed in its intended environment -- out on the street. Tadeusz Rolke, who documented the changing Polish social scene through his photography of people in public spaces, also lent his talents to capturing what could arguably be called Poland's first fashion photography. His images of models in the latest collections by Barbara Hoff or Jerzy Antkowiak are among the first editorial shots taken in the newly rising-from-the-rubble city of Warsaw. I think this little exhibition, sitting quietly yet proudly amidst the chaotic hustle and bustle of a large shopping mall, is a wonderful introduction to the rarely explored topic of Polish fashion photography. I myself was particularly surprised at just how rich the Polish fashion scene was during this time. For those of you who could not see the exhibition, all the photographs on display are featured below.