Krystyna Spark

A group of fashionable jet setters pose elegantly at the French Casino Le Touquet as they contemplate their next move in a serious game of what looks like blackjack. The moment is captured for eternity by famed photographer Richard Avedon in August 1954. It was taken around the same time as his now iconic shot of Sunny Harnett at the same location wearing an evening dress by Madame Grès. The group photograph, however, is less dreamy and hazy. Both images feature model Sunny Harnett, yet here she is focused on the game. As she stands behind fellow fashion model Renee Breton the two form an intriguing team. Both otherworldly and aloof the slinky women are grounded through their undeniable involvement in this popular game. Talk about girl power!

Although high street fashion retailers try to create unique designs each season, it is undeniable that trends are a recirculation of the past. Who can see this better than those who know a little about the history of dress? However, because of these modern twists and "updated" silhouettes, it can be difficult to find clothing in stores like Zara or H&M that truly have that vintage feel. Searching overflowing clothes rails in dark shopping malls for simple shirts that would not look out of place as part of an authentic 1950s outfit or bags that echo beach fashions of the previous century can be an arduous task.

A seemingly simple hairstyle, the high ponytail, combed tightly towards the back of the head was all the rage among teenagers during the late 1950s. Setting new trends in order to break away from uncomfortable starched petticoats and arduous time-consuming hairdos, contemporary youth used their new fashions to turn their backs on conservative ideals and set themselves apart from the pre-war-born generation of their parents. The high ponytail is arguably the most "modern" of vintage hairstyles and one that has to this day retained its cool-factor and universal appeal.

If you read this blog you will know that I am always on the hunt for pieces that resemble vintage products sold in the past. From time to time I come across a rare gem that has remained unchanged throughout many decades. Such was the case with this bottle of perfume. I wrote an earlier blog post about Coty's L'Aimant scent, where I stated that I am not yet converted to the often strong odour of vintage perfumes... except for one. The time has come to reveal the secret scent!

The smell in question is that of No. 4711's eau de cologne -- the toilet water hailing from the city of Cologne in Germany which quite naturally lends it its name. It can therefore be called the original eau de cologne, the one that led the way for future competitors, and became an icon in it's own right. Created by Italian perfumier Johann Maria Farina who opened business in 1709 in Cologne, Germany - the perfumed water was the first of its kind. The success of the innovative concoction was so great that it became a regularly ordered cosmetic, forming the toilette of many a king, nobleman or fashionable lady. Although today No. 4711 is seen as a fragrance directed at women, this was not always the case and for a long time it was used by both ladies and gentlemen.

Above I have included two advertisements from my personal collection of historical magazines. Both were featured in the Polish magazine "Światowid" (13 June 1931). Published in Kraków, the magazine ran from 1924 to 1939 and took on the form of a weekly chronicle which covered both domestic and international affairs. The first advert is actually for hair dye and states that the dye is made from nut extract and is able to dye hair from the lightest of blond to the blackest of black. The second advertisement is for the typical eau de cologne and it recommends to use the product in your morning bath or to rub your body with it in order to wake up the senses and feel energised. At the bottom of the advert it reminds buyers to check the patented blue-gold label and notes that the cologne is made entirely in the village of Dziedzice (located in the Silesian region of Poland) whose history extends as far back as the Middle Ages!

From the various publications one can see that No. 4711 was available all across Europe. Not only that, it was also able to retain it's status as a luxurious and one-of-a-kind perfume throughout the years. Although tastes have changed and it's name does not elicit the same joyous reaction it did a while ago, the company's headquarters, located in a six-floor building in Cologne, are regular visited by eager tourists and perfume aficionados. It's iconic bottle carries such an aura of glamour and modernity that it is no surprise that it is frequently used by set designers in film and theater. Most recently I saw it in the series Mr. Selfridge, where it occupied the majority of the famous department store's cosmetics counter.