While fashion models in the 1960s may not
have had the same following as those immediately recognized today, they
nonetheless represented a similarly desirable lifestyle. Photographed at events, wearing clothing from the most in-demand designers, their often recognizable
physique led them to be scouted not only as models but as actresses too. It was
their budding popularity that cemented the potential influence of models today
– celebrities who do much more than just walk runways.
A number of recognizable names come to one’s
mind when thinking of iconic fashion models of the sixties. Undeniable are
Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton or Veruschka. The later even appearing as herself in the
1966 Michelangelo Antonioni film, Blowup.
The 1960s is arguably the first decade that is seen as cool in contemporary society
and the poster girls of that time were, as they are also today, beautiful,
original and provoking. Teresa Tuszyńska fit this description perfectly and, in
a short haircut calling to mind Twiggy, was to become the British models equal in
a country where fashion seemed more limited than it actually was.
22 May 2014
I noticed the photographer Paul Wolff as the author of an image on the front cover of "Eva" magazine (see position number 4) and could not resist searching for more of his photographs. Turns out he had quite the eye. Just look at these images! Below I link an insightful article by Thorsten Overgaard, which talks about Wolff's relation to the Leica camera, but more importantly, includes some stunning photography.
Click here or paste in this link.
http://www.overgaard.dk/the-story-behind-that-picture-0122_gb-Dr-Paul_Wolff.html
Above:
Paul Wolff, "Textile Weaver", 1930s.
http://servatius.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/blog-post_1.html
Below:
Norbert Bunge, of Argus Fotokunst in Berlin, talks about German photographer, Dr. Paul Wolff (posted to Youtube by Thorsten Overgaard, 20 July 2016).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6ssIvQiT7s
Dr. Paul Wolff, "Das Opel-Bad", Wiesbaden, 1934.
https://plus.google.com/104539787714838412160/posts/j4enjA2pk5w
10 September 2017
Cassidy Zachary wrote an article about Terry Newman's recent publication, Legendary Authors and the Clothes They Wore. Who would have thought that Gertrude Stein was among the first wearers of Pierre Balmain, that Oscar Wilde was a member of the Rational Dress Society or that Virginia Wolfe wrote for British Vogue in the 1920s! Perhaps this book should be next up on your reading list?
Click here or paste in this link.
https://theartofdress.org/2017/09/10/legendary-authors-and-the-clothes-they-wore-by-terry-newman/
Buy the book on Amazon.
4 October 2017
My friend wrote a lighthearted article about hats in paintings. Interested in what a Dada-style hat looks like? Take a look!
Click here or paste in this link.
http://www.dailyartdaily.com/hats-from-paintings/
4 June 2013
The Fashion Institute of Technology describes its recent acquisition -- a nearly complete run of "Eva" magazine. This Czech-language women's magazine ran from 1928 to 1943 and is a wonderful source of insight into World War II fashion in Eastern Europe.
Click here or paste in this link.
http://blog.fitnyc.edu/materialmode/2013/06/04/hot-accession-eva-the-journal-of-educated-women/
29 January 2012
Throughout the years many brands and businesses fade away and are ultimately forgotten about forever. I am always excited when I discover a rarely talked about company from the past. Such was the case with Princess Pat, which only has two sentences describing it on Wikipedia! Read more about the brand here, Princess Pat -- The Real Story of this Cosmetics Brand.
Click here or paste in this link.
http://collectingvintagecompacts.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/princess-pat-real-story-of-this.html
Below: Products by Princess Pat c. 1920s - 1930s.
Princess Pat Rouge endorsed by actress Loretta Young, c. 1920s
Princess Pat Lipstick, c. 1930s
Princess Pat Week-End Set, c. 1920s
Ever since I moved into my first university dorm room in 2014, I aimed to create the perfect pinboard. I wish I could have had the artistic freedom of Tezza, whose beautiful wall, covered to the ceiling with magazine scraps, polaroids and doodles, is the ultimate forms of inspiration. I however, was limited within the boundaries of my (thankfully rather large) pinboard. Yet, despite these constraints, I was able to create a collage that is both personal and eye-catching.
In every dormitory I inhabited my pinboard changed styles and content, fortunately, I am happy to say that my current one is my favourite! Over time, through trial and error, I have learned what works, what looks good and what to avoid. Below I list some tips and advice on how to construct that enviable pinboard - but remember, most importantly, it has to be unique to YOU.
1. To give your composition harmony create a gradient of colours. Do you see how in the top left corner of the pinboard there is a focus on warmer, yellow tones? These are then echoed in the yellow profile of the woman in the March 1934 Harper's Bazaar cover illustration poster, as well as in the yellow slogan-postcard on the bottom. You can also see these tones referenced in the opposite corner in the sepia toned photograph of my grandmother. A similar thing can be said about the colour green, which is prevalent in the central vertical line of the composition and then also seen on the left side in the other Harper's Bazaar cover illustration poster from February, 1929.
2. Use washi tape - it's cute ;)
3. Include a mix of types of photographs and illustrations. High-fashion magazine editorials, museum postcards of paintings, slogan postcards (the two I added are both from Paperchase), vintage magazine cover illustrations, personal family archives, Photo Booth pictures, polaroids, theatre or cinema tickets and images of favourite entertainers are all great things to include.
4. Think about texture. Is your image printed, developed from film, drawn, cut out or even ripped from a magazine? All of this adds interesting variety to your pinboard composition. Notice how the vintage 1940s photograph above stands out compared to the the early 2000s photograph below it. And the two also look different from the 1990s flash-lit image even lower. The same is the case with the trio of images from the Photo Booth and the tiny black and white image of Gabrielle Chanel, which was cut out from a recent issue of Harper's Bazaar.
5. Edges and framing. I already mentioned ripping vs. cutting images from magazines or simply from printed pieces of paper. But this little detail can significantly add to the aesthetic appeal of pinboards and collages. Above you can see how the slightly tattered edges of a few vintage photographs create a subtle change in style compared to the scalloped edges and thin white frame of the even older ones. Similarly, the Vincent van Gogh Starry Night postcard is framed with the painting in the centre, leaving a wide frame around it. The same is the case with the portrait by Allan Ramsay, however here the frame resembles a polaroid, which is another intriguing element.
6. Do not always use images. Sometimes you may end up with a bare narrow space with no image that will fit the blank spot. In such cases I suggest opting for patterns. Below you can see how I filled two spaces with a yellow floral print - it was actually part of a billowing dress photographed in a fashion editorial! It is these tiny detail that give your pinboard that "organised chaos" kind of feel.
Pinboards are an expression of yourself. Especially at school or at university, when new friends will probably often knock on your door, your unique pinboard will be able to do all the talking (although I do advise you do some yourself too) and offer insight into the kind of person you are, what interests you have, what you find beautiful, what you stand for, what your family is like, your values, and the experiences you have gained. They can take a while to make, because gathering content that truly expresses your vision and sorting through family photo archives is not an easy feat. Remember to enjoy the process though, because you will be looking a this masterpiece for a good while and nobody wants to reminisce about frustrating times or question hasty choices. Have fun and good luck with your creations!
Below are some examples of the collages Tezza created which, as I mentioned at the beginning, made me fall in love with this form of self-expression! Take a look, which ones do you like most?
Last summer, upon my mother's suggestion, I decided to visit the relatively newly opened Dollhouse Museum. A small exhibition space, situated within the previously inaccessible secret quarters of the Congress Hall in the Palace of Culture and Science in Warsaw, it houses a rather impressive collection of historical dollhouses and, in most cases, includes the dolls for which the houses were made. Surprisingly hidden from view, due to its entrance through one of the Palace's inner courtyards, one has to circle the monumental Palace of Culture to find the entrance. Once you do, however, it is like stepping into a fairytale and the awe one feels in the midst of the tiny, beautiful worlds within is shared by both children and adults alike. I can guarantee you that!
When I saw Ingrid Bergman's outfits in the film Journey to Italy (1954) I could not help noticing, firstly, their timeless nature, and secondly, their modern accessories. One item that particularly caught my attention was the dark coloured leather-looking bucket bag, which Katherine Joyce (Bergman's character) carries, as she is she and her husband are being given a tour of their newly inherited Italian villa. It immediately called to mind the popular Mansur Gabriel buckets bags, which everyone was coveting not that long ago.
I find it peculiarly fascinating when items of the past resemble pieces currently sought after. One would think that what becomes desirable would be something new and fresh. Surprisingly (or maybe not) these are usually items which, if one digs back far enough, have been carried and used by men and women long ago. Just take a look at my earlier post about mesh bags!
Above: Film stills from the Roberto Rossellini film, Journey to Italy (1954).
Below: Similar styles of bags sold today (September 2017).
Recently to close at London's Fashion and Textile Museum was a retrospective of creations by American fashion designer, Anna Sui. It marks the first time that an American designer has had an exhibition dedicated solely to themselves in the United Kingdom! While interning in London this summer I was recommended to visit the relatively small museum, which, with its bright facade, is quickly visible amidst the sometimes grey London weather.
Vintage perfume bottles will always have a special place in my heart. Their characteristic clean lines and statesque bottles never fail to connote classic Hollywood glamour atop any dressing table or nightstand. While the most known example of their enduring quality is undoubtedly Chanel No. 5, I am always on the look out for the unconventional, and in this case more affordable, perfumes, eau de toilettes and colognes, that women of the past liked to use.
Above: Coty's L'Aimant "The Magnet" advertisement, 1939.
http://www.vintageadbrowser.com/beauty-and-hygiene-ads-1930s/47
One of the things that always surprises me is their shared heaviness of scent. I wonder if it was the result of a particular "fashion" for heavier, more musky, smells or whether it was a necessity, resulting from the popularity of smoking and the subsequent need for more distinct and stronger scents. Whatever the reasons may be, I personally am still not convinced about the smells and in all but one case (which I will reveal in the near future) would not wear these perfumes. At least not now, while I am still young and prefer lighter notes, if any perfume at all.
Nonetheless, I like knowing that, were there ever to be a need, I can still go out and buy the same perfume ladies in the 1940s would, just down the street at my local drugstore! Coty's L'Aimant was launched in 1927 and was part of a series of cosmetic products of the same name. It was one of the first scents released by the French-founded American company, which is now probably most known for their celebrity collaborations as well as ownership of brands such as Rimmel London or Chloe fragrances. However, in the past, it was recognised as a stand-alone name and could frequently be seen advertising their newest makeup line on the back-cover of women's magazines.
I found a more in-depth review by a writer who knows more about the specific notes and ingredients - if you are looking for a more exact description of the scent and a comparison to different perfumes, here is the link.
Coty's L'Aimant c. 1960s
http://themuseinwoodenshoes.com/perfume-review-vintage-coty-laimant-parfum-de-toilette/
The same perfume currently on sale on Boots.com
http://www.boots.com/coty-laimant-parfum-de-toilette-spray-15ml-10003857
Below are some photos which I myself took while on a trip to Boots. As you can see, the perfume comes in a variety of sizes and the price is always under 15 GBP.
What is the marimekko dress? Who wore it? What did it symbolise? - all these questions are addressed in Alexandra Lange's article for The New Yorker entitled, Jane Jacobs, Georgia O'Keeffe, and the Power of the Marimekko Dress.
Click here or paste in this link.
http://www.newyorker.com/culture/cultural-comment/jane-jacobs-georgia-okeeffe-and-the-power-of-the-marimekko-dress
Above: H&M's tribute to Marimekko, 2007.
http://lagaceta.elpalaciodehierro.com/2014/03/12/historikko/
Below:
Marimekko's first fashion show in Helsinki, 20 May 1951.
http://lagaceta.elpalaciodehierro.com/2014/03/12/historikko/
21 November 2003 - 15 February 2004
The exhibition Marimekko: Fabrics, Fashion, Architecture at The Bard Graduate Centre Gallery - (a link from the above article) this is a summary of the past exhibition, which focuses on the aforementioned Finnish brand, Marimekko.Click here or paste in this link.
https://www.bgc.bard.edu/gallery/exhibitions/43/marimekko
21 June 2017
Rebecca Arnold's short introduction to the history of pockets for COS stores.
Click here or paste in this link.
http://www.cosstores.com/gb/Studio/Projects/On_Pockets
11 July 2017
Vintage dresser and model, Daria Nelson, talks about her fascination with 1950s fashion and recommends her top three vintage shops in Paris!
Click here or paste in this link.
http://apero-a-paris.fr/en/guide-on-vintage-style-en/
16 December 2016
An introduction to Moda Polska, the iconic Polish fashion house, founded by Jadwiga Grabowska.
Click here or paste in this link.
http://www.polishfashionstories.com/before89-b/2016/12/14/moda-polska?rq=moda%20polska
How often is it that you stumble upon pyjamas in a vintage store? Much like swimsuits it seems to be one of those wardrobe essentials that is quite difficult to acquire. And once you do find a style that you like it usually turns out to be either not in your size, in mediocre condition or simply too expensive to justify buying. This mission can be a challenge to complete. Therefore, I myself have resorted to looking for a simple white nightgown - something which, as it turns out, is not that much easier to do!
Although I love vintage shopping, on-line and in store, nightwear (a bit like underwear) is a rather personal matter. One often (hopefully!) needs a couple of sets and the material has to feel soft and be comfortable to wear. I have made the switch to nightgowns long ago, primarily for two reasons. Firstly, I prefer the breezy feel of a nightie, as opposed to the stiffness of a classic, long sleeved and long trousered pyjama set. Secondly, they are a hundred times more delicate and feminine (well, at least they have the potential to be so) and fit in much better within my aesthetic.
Also, is there not something satisfying about stepping into bed in a fresh, newly bought, crisp white nightie? For me, it is a timeless piece of female clothing which gives nod to the Edwardian tea gown - a style of dress developed as a more casual alternative to the typically rigorous fashions of the time.
My favourites are those with detailed embroidery or lace trim and always in 100% cotton. The one above is from Zara Home and it is serving me very well. I included a few screenshots with similar finds below and wish you all the best on your search. They must be selling these classics somewhere!
Zara Home
Zara Home
The White Company
Where do you look to find your favourite authentic-vintage or vintage-looking sleepwear?
On until the 12th of August, Theater: It's On Our Heads, is the latest exhibition at The Opera Gallery - a small gallery situated in the wing of Warsaw's National Opera.
As soon as word got to me about the opening of this exhibition, I was determined to go and relieved that it was on during the summer - when I am home from university. Were I to be unable to see it, I would break my perfect attendance record at the gallery's fashion related exhibitions! Having previously focused on dress and footwear, it seemed only natural that the next area of interest would be millinery. And so, I walked headfirst into a room full of headdresses, bonnets, horns, wreaths and even full-on animal heads. All were gathered together to portray the variety of hats held and produced in one of the country's most prominent wardrobe departments.
Today I would like to talk about the original range of Coach handbags. For me, the ideal bag is one that is simple, durable, versatile and timeless. The Coach Classics line, as these handbags are generally referred to, fulfil all these requirements perfectly. Founded in New York City in 1941, Coach thrived on their leather-handling expertise and became known for creating finely-crafted but practical accessories. Regarded today as a distinctly American brand, with a national tie similar to Tommy Hilfiger or Michael Kors, Coach remains up-to-date with changing fashions and advertising strategies (remember their Fall 2013 campaign with Karlie Kloss and Liu Wen - I loved it... but maybe that's because I was born in NYC!).
However, as much as I value the Coach brand and wish it continued success, I cannot help but notice that the designs which capture my heart most, are no longer available. A proud possession in the 80s and 90s, these simple, undecorated, classic bags were believed not to appeal to the more frivolous styles of the early 2000s and were substituted for accessories made of combined materials monogramed with the letter "C". While these new designs did become fashion favourites themselves, let's not forget that fashion is cyclical and less is (always) more. After a decade and a half, demand for timeless simplicity and designs that last unsurprisingly returned. Coach has since attempted to create an updated version of its classic line and launch models which borrow design features from the originals. Although some of Coach's modern bags do occasionally tempt me, it is the vintage ones that are forever etched in my memory!
My own first acquisition from the Coach Classics line was the Willis bag and then the Regina model. Pictured in the title photograph, they are both made from black cowhide leather and were purchased online -- the former on Asos Marketplace and the latter through Ebay. I filmed a video (below) featuring additional information as well as reviews of both bags for anyone considering acquiring one. The full range of classic bags contained more than the five models pictured in the photograph below and I often stumble upon alternative versions that fit seamlessly into the line. It truly must have been a very popular bag.
Below: An excerpt from a catalogue advertising the Shoulder Purse.
https://forum.purseblog.com/threads/authenticate-this-coach.818914/page-174
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/4e/7a/0a/4e7a0a035361bfdbfab3912d1566c3d6.jpg
http://www.extrapetite.com/2013/02/vintage-coach-review-shopping-care.html
http://the-atlantic-pacific.com/2011/08/25/jacket-gap/
Above: A photo from an outfit post by Blair, writer of the blog Atlantic-Pacific, from August 2011 - the bags made a brief comeback around this time and they have been on my radar ever since.
A few years ago I bought a netted, crotchet, mesh, fishing, whatever-you-want-to-call-it bag. I saw it out of the corner of my eye in a boutique in Warsaw and although it was a bright fuchsia colour, and I usually go for versatile blacks or browns, I bought it! And I remember why too. There were a couple of reasons. Firstly, I knew it was an accessory worn in the past that would fit my vintage-style outfits, and secondly, it was an item I distinctly remember my grandmother talk about using. I never, however, imagined it would become such a trendy accessory within the next few years. And boy do I love it when items used daily in the past become desirable and fashionable again - which seems to be the case here!
Above: A newspaper advert for the crotchet bag, c. late 1930s - early 1940s.
http://ic.pics.livejournal.com/lunteg/16589014/133959/133959_original.jpg
The bag itself was already in use in the 1930s, especially for everyday food shops or visits to fruit and vegetable markets. It was also a typical summer accessory, used to carry towels and a few bits to the beach. One of the bags advantages is its ability to significantly expand and shrink in size. The way it is designed allows it to widen, a bit like stretching out a fishing net, to accommodate bulky items or awkwardly shaped fruits. It actually has a particularly nostalgic connotation in Poland, which is where I live, because it was a type of bag often carried by people throughout the communist regime (i.e. the 1950s to 1980s) - which is why I remember my grandma talking about it. She fondly recalled the peculiar little bag that that accompanied her on grocery trips to stores with not enough stock (not such a fond memory). I love to reminisce about stories my grandma told me and the fact that this style of bag reminds me of them is heartwarming. That's what I like about old items - they carry a story. So if you want to bring back a bit of the past, all the while keeping up with the latest trends, then I think this practical purchase is one to make.
I saw versions of the bag appear in stores such as H&M and recently noticed it on Instagram too. This really is proof that a great invention never ceases to amaze, even if it's as simple as a cotton (or 100% recycled polyester - it's nice you are trying to care for the environment H&M) crotchet bag.
H&M mesh shopper bag made from 100% recycled polyester (Summer 2017 collection).
http://www2.hm.com/en_gb/productpage.0488493002.html#Light%20blue
Accessed on 9/06/2017
As some may know, one of my favourite things to do is to recreate style from the past. Since summer vacation is (fairly) fast approaching I wanted to share this video I found, from a competition I took part in two years ago. Hopefully I can do something similar again this year!
The event was part of a wider commemorative celebration of the June 6th 1944 landing of Allied forces in Normandy, France. Included in the week-long happening was a 1940s fashion show, 1940s open-to-the-public fashion competition (which I took part in), jazz music concerts, dioramas, reenactments of battles and much more.
So take a look at the short video below and catch a glimpse of my outfit at 1:50 minutes - events like these might convince you to visit the beautiful Polish peninsula!
I haven't done a post like this in a while and they happen to be some of my favorite to read. This is my selection of items I used during summer vacation, hence the natural and pink theme.
Nobody likes a ton of stuff on their face in the hot summer months... well, I don't anyway. The pink makeup bag from Victoria's Secret I bought on sale for 50% off which I consider not bad. And since it fit the color scheme I decided to bring it with me.
Bourjois Healthy Mix Foundation in 52 Vanilla
A great natural foundation with light to medium coverage. Perfect for the summer!
Maybelline Affinitone Concealer in 02 Natural
Check our my "Monthly Favorites #1" post coming soon!
Maybelline Master Glaze Blush in Just-Pinched Pink no. 10
A very natural light pink blush in an easy-to-blend formula, great to throw in a beach bag.
Maybelline 24HR Color Tatoo in On And On Bronze no. 35
Perfect for the evening to create a more intense eye. I love it because the staying power is fantastic and it's at a drugstore price. I usually use my finger to blend it out but a brush also works (here I have the Sephora All Over Shadow brush in no. 22).
Maybelline Define-A-Lash Mascara
Not for those who like thick spidery lashes because the finish is very natural and each lash is precisely defined without any clumping! I love it for the natural look it creates.
Maybelline Dream Matte Powder in no. 04 Vanilla Rose
One of my favorite drugstore powders, I think this one can easily rival more expensive brands.
NYX Jumbo Eye Pencil in Yogurt no. 611
I brought this in case I wanted a natural eye shadow. These are very simple and easy to use and although there are better versions out there these are really not bad for the price. This color is a very wearable champagne tone with a slight sheen.
Sephora Unique Pink Lip Balm
I love this stuff! It goes with everything and creates the perfect pink pout. It's supposed to match up to the pH of ones skin and although I'm not sure that is true, the color it gives is very flattering and lasts a good amount of time. The only downside is that there seems to be a tendency to dry out the lips so keep a good lip treatment on hand.
Anastasia Beverly Hills Lip Gloss in Heiress
I'm not a fan of lipgloss in general so don't quote me on this :) The color here is what attracted my attention but the formula is quite thick so unless you can deal with hair in your gloss this is not for you. The applicator though is quite unique since it's just a flat piece of silicone so if you want to test something new out maybe give this a go?!
Victoria's Secret Makeup Bag
A good sized makeup bag to fit all your essentials.
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