Throughout history there have been many publications that experienced their "5 minutes of fame" and then disappeared among the crevices of tall bookshelves in old libraries, only to be found (often by chance) by the occasional print collector or magazine lover. These titles, though short-lived, were often ground-breaking for their time, ushering in new ways of formatting pages, presenting images, editing photos and featured innovative typography designs. They often represented a specific creative group or alternative art movement and served to promote the work of the artists and writers who created the publication in the first place. A few known examples could be Andy Warhol's Interview Magazine, Ver Sacrum from the early 1900s, Fleur Cowles' Flair Magazine, the Czech-language EVA publication, or even the German edition of early Vogue. But has anybody heard of VIZ?
I found out about the publication through a friend on instagram who was conducting research in a private collection. She posted a couple of photos online and it immediately caught my eye. I was lucky to find a listing of a complete run of the magazine on the internet auction site, Catawiki, otherwise it would not be possible for me to share the privately held images.
VIZ had a 15-issue run, from 1978 to 1981. It appeared in print following the downfall of DELUXE -- a publication that lasted for a mere two issues and established a style that inspired the likes of i-D. DELUXE was edited by Caroline Baker of NOVA, a British magazine known for its provocative subject matter, which ran for a decade from 1965. It is incredibly rare and difficult to find. VIZ blossomed within this environment of the punk-rock scene of the late 1970s establishing itself as a radical, confident publication.
DELUXE Magazine, issue 2 of 2, artwork by Allen Jones, 1978, sold on Catawiki.
Established by Ferry Zayadi, VIZ covered a plethora of topics, from music, art and fashion, to architecture, set and shop design. Nonetheless, the focus of the publication was always people and many issues feature interviews with fashion designers, such as Kansai Yamamoto, Zandra Rhodes or Claude Montana.
A short, slightly bored figure in his early forties, publisher and editor Ferry Zayadi draws nonstop the smoke from a chain of menthol cigarettes from his neat, pursed Cupid-lips. VIZ is basically just a superior brand of this peculiar breed of magazine. It is concerned, says Zayadi, with advertising, graphics, fashion, photography, architecture, the visual side of the music business, jewellery design, stage design -- all the visuals that make up our environment [...] Even so, Zayadi comes close to summing up the genre when he confesses, "in the end I think it's people that matter more than what they're doing." The Italian-born Zayadi, a self-confessed "magazine freak" who changed course from the profession of architect that brought him to England and used his graphics-steeped background to enter this rarified end of publishing, has about him a hard-nosed, perceptive professionalism.
- The Face Magazine, 1980
VIZ was printed in London and is the same size as a record sleeve, a stylistic choice that is symbolic of the strong influence of music on the contemporary artist.
All images of VIZ from a complete set, sold on Catawiki.
While in the past illustrated magazine covers were the status quo, today it is rare for a fashion publication to forego the medium of photography in the name of subjective forms of representing the human form. Yet that is exactly what Italian Vogue did when it commissioned seven artists to illustrate their January covers. And, considering the current rules of social distancing, this kind of creative outburst may well happen again much sooner than anticipated!
Title photo (left to right): Cover illustrations by Cassi Namoda, Milo Manara and Yoshitaka Amano, Vogue Italia Instagram.
Aside from being a welcome change to the typical way of doing things (and a way of reducing the costs and plane pollution associated with shooting on-location editorials), Italian Vogue’s illustrated covers bring to the attention seven artists. Some firmly established in their craft, others just beginning their careers in the art world. Women and men, young and old – the group is definitely worth taking a closer look at. Who knows, you may find their work fits perfectly in to your unique collection (and, if money is an issue, prints and posters are always an option).
Paolo Ventura (b. 1968)
Paolo Ventura is an established artist. Born in Milan, Italy, he began his career as a photographer working for many well-known fashion publications. A graduate of the Brera Academy of Fine Arts Ventura decided to put aside his job as a professional photographer and relocated to New York to pursue his artistic calling. In 2005 the artist produced his first collection of works titled “War Souvenirs.” Calling to mind the settings of paintings by Edward Hopper, Ventura’s series was favourably received despite its difficult subject matter. The artist is currently based in Tuscany, France, and continues to work on a variety of projects including opera set design.
Paolo Ventura, War Souvenir #4, 2005
Edward Hopper, Automat, 1927
Yoshitaka Amano (b. 1952)
Yoshitaka Amano is a Japanese artist who made his first steps in the industry designing and drawing characters for anime productions in the late 1960s. Later, he expanded his creative focus and began illustrating for works of fantasy and science fiction. Amano’s recent commissions are influenced by modern surrealism, with an attention to detail that is associated with early Japanese woodcuts and the movement of the Vienna Secession.
Cassi Namoda (b. 1988)
Currently residing in Los Angeles, Cassi Namoda was born in Maputo, Mozambique. She belongs to the young generation of artists reinterpreting the way African women are portrayed in art. Though Namoda’s painterly representations may at times seem to not subvert the long-standing art historical cannon, it is in fact the style she works in that makes her canvases meaningful and modern. Citing German Expressionism as a one of her main sources of inspiration, Namoda values the way the movement emphasizes an artist’s most intimate emotions.
Cassi Namoda (b. 1988)
Currently residing in Los Angeles, Cassi Namoda was born in Maputo, Mozambique. She belongs to the young generation of artists reinterpreting the way African women are portrayed in art. Though Namoda’s painterly representations may at times seem to not subvert the long-standing art historical cannon, it is in fact the style she works in that makes her canvases meaningful and modern. Citing German Expressionism as a one of her main sources of inspiration, Namoda values the way the movement emphasizes an artist’s most intimate emotions.
Cassi Namoda, Sasha and Zamani's Fruitful Earth, 2019
Delphine Desane (b. 1988)
Having worked for ten years as a fashion stylist, Delphine Desane began to paint during her maternity leave. She soon discovered a new passion and her career switched paths. Desane’s works are bold and clear, typically painted using acrylic paints. She touches on the notions of femininity and race, identity and heritage. Despite the challenging subject matter, Desane’s portraits exude a serene gallantry, which is not easy to pass by blindly. She’s a name to watch for sure.
Vanessa Beecroft (b. 1969)
Beecroft began her career in New York, in the 1990s. Today, she is one of the most famous performance artists of her generation and her work has been exhibited in leading art institutions. Beecroft is known for her still and silent, tableau vivant-like portrayals of female figures. Recently, however, she has branched out to collaborate with the likes of Kanye West, whom she helped present his Yeezy collection at New York Fashion Week.
Having worked for ten years as a fashion stylist, Delphine Desane began to paint during her maternity leave. She soon discovered a new passion and her career switched paths. Desane’s works are bold and clear, typically painted using acrylic paints. She touches on the notions of femininity and race, identity and heritage. Despite the challenging subject matter, Desane’s portraits exude a serene gallantry, which is not easy to pass by blindly. She’s a name to watch for sure.
Vanessa Beecroft (b. 1969)
Beecroft began her career in New York, in the 1990s. Today, she is one of the most famous performance artists of her generation and her work has been exhibited in leading art institutions. Beecroft is known for her still and silent, tableau vivant-like portrayals of female figures. Recently, however, she has branched out to collaborate with the likes of Kanye West, whom she helped present his Yeezy collection at New York Fashion Week.
Vanessa Beecroft, Installation view, 2017
David Salle (b. 1952)
Some critics argue that Salle’s work lacks coherence and that the images he combines are unrelated. Yet, this is what makes the artist’s works unique. Salle often begins with a photograph of a particular person, or an image representative of popular culture, onto this he layers paint and draws abstract shapes. What results is a concoction of colourful references, pulled together to create vibrant, eye-catching works.
Milo Manara (b. 1945)
“Milo Manara is an Italian comic book writer and artist. He’s one of the most important international erotic authors,” – reads the artist’s instagram header. With a following of over eighty three thousand on his account Manara is undoubtedly a veteran of his genre. Beginning his career in the late 1960s this multitalented artist has illustrated and co-created over 50 publications. While at times his drawing style calls to mind Mucha’s depictions of Sarah Bernhardt Manara’s motives are undoubtedly quite different.
Some critics argue that Salle’s work lacks coherence and that the images he combines are unrelated. Yet, this is what makes the artist’s works unique. Salle often begins with a photograph of a particular person, or an image representative of popular culture, onto this he layers paint and draws abstract shapes. What results is a concoction of colourful references, pulled together to create vibrant, eye-catching works.
Milo Manara (b. 1945)
“Milo Manara is an Italian comic book writer and artist. He’s one of the most important international erotic authors,” – reads the artist’s instagram header. With a following of over eighty three thousand on his account Manara is undoubtedly a veteran of his genre. Beginning his career in the late 1960s this multitalented artist has illustrated and co-created over 50 publications. While at times his drawing style calls to mind Mucha’s depictions of Sarah Bernhardt Manara’s motives are undoubtedly quite different.
Jodorowsky & Manara, Borgia III: Les flames du bûcher, 2008, p. 4
Follow all the mentioned artists on Instagram:
Paolo Ventura @Paolo.Ventura
Yoshitaka Amano @Yoshitaka_Amano
Cassi Namoda @Cas_Amandaa
Delphine Desane @DelphineDesane
Vanessa Beecroft @VBuntitled
David Salle @David_Salle
Milo Manara @MiloManara_official
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